You’re finding out, as am I, that maintaining a blog whilst on a tour is not as straightforward as it seemed at the ‘home’ planning stage for some of the following reasons:
- I prefer to write and post soon after the action and for this…
- you need the Internet, preferably in English,,,
- without experiencing frustrating technical difficulties
- you need some time each day for blogging…
- and for a few days there hasn’t been any time, due to arriving after dark, having a quick wash, eat, fall into bed
- where there’s no Internet it’s difficult to write, save and post later as the blog info will be out of time and ‘old news’
- nothing too out of the ordinary happens as a participant of a tour due to having everything done for you, making it difficult to: write about getting lost; getting stuck; Fawlty Towers-type hotels; starvation (doesn’t happen); sense of achievement at finding somewhere.
- not having to think has the affect of disabling major aspects of the brain, such as: deciding when to get up (and go to bed); what to look at; get confused about how to spend the allocated time at a museum/market/restaurant; converse coherently with travelling companion when in the company of others (17, tour leader, driver and guides) - and much more. Even the ‘super watch’ has gone quiet.
I got into a spot of bother today (tour group member behaviour) during photographing of Bolivian Flag Day, in the main Sucre square. The main action comprised of hundreds of young children (some very young) dressed up in various uniforms, preparing themselves and later marching with a band en masse. Each little band of youngsters was headed up by a little drummer and a tiny baton twirler (Deborah!). The really interesting stuff was watching mothers and other family members fussing over their ‘pride and joy’. Most of the children were unsmiling and supervised by matron-like figures in unflattering aprons (dragon-like) and there was very little spontaneous smiling amongst the kids.
Anyway, I got carried away taking photographs in the throng whilst the rest of the tour group were rounded up, ready to drive (in a bus) to take a look at the outside of the supreme court building. r caused the said bus to drive round the block whilst I was rounded up. My travelling companion’s face was enough of a reprimand to render me temporarily subservient (only for about five minutes!) and obedient to the requirements of being a member of a tour group.
Well, it’s off for a flight to La Paz (45mins) tomorrow and I will be good and ready - as per instructions. Apparently we are in the middle of our tour at the moment - so more training in store.
Monday, 17 August 2009
Sunday, 16 August 2009
Catchup!
I’m back at long last, just this minute arrived in Sucre, beautiful capital of Bolivia, having travelled for three hours via public transport (bus - nearly boiled to death) from Potosi. We’ve been travelling non-stop since we left San Pedro de Atacama Iast Wednesday (12.08.09) in four wheel drive vehicles - which sounds much more glam than it actually is - having completed 900kms across: the biggest salt pan in the world (150 x 90kms); stayed in a hotel made of salt; nearly froze to death in a cave-dwelling type very basic Bolivian hotel (dungeon-like); suffered chronic altitude headache/gaspy breathing, (and masses of other ’huge’ stuff), and of course been denied access to any technology - there was never time for Internet cafes - apart from cameras of course, which are clicked incessantly (and sometimes annoyingly). Thankfully these are not huge, except for my room mate’s, which can only be used
occasionally due to he lack of time to stop for birds - he experienced a heart stopping speedy drive through Diademed Sandpiper-Plover habitat, which was something of a challenge.
If you want to check our whereabouts, at Hostal de Su Merced, Sucre (for two nights), visit www.desumerced.com
Upping the pace - written 13 Aug 2009
Upping the pace (written Day 5, pre-departure for Bolivia)
I’m catching up after the events of the last two days which have moved at a rapid pace in all directions - particularly height above sea level. It’s not something to be dwelt on in the usual course of daily events but the compass feature on the super watch has been overridden by the altitude button - so you’ll also have to get used to it. To get you acclimatised, I’m tapping away in our room on the final morning (of two) at the little town of San Pedro de Altacama which is at 2 300 metres - where it’s boiling hot by day and v. cold at night - although it will be much colder in Bolivia. This brings ‘stuff’ back into the foreground, as the whole group of us (18) spend a lot of the time putting ‘stuff’ on and taking it off, all day long - and night as far as I’m concerned. Last night’s bed coverings were particularly frail!
To give you an idea, we set off at 5.00am yesterday morning for a bone shaking two hour drive to El Tatio Geysers where it was minus 14 Celsius (can’t find the degree key - don’t think there is one). It was an ‘awesome’ place, which again challenged my perceptions of scenery and geography. To be in a desert which hasn’t seen rain for forty years in some areas and then to be transported to a moonlike setting wit) steam rising and endless bubbling cauldrons was challenging. The biggest challenge was whether I could actually move whilst wearing so many layers (approx 9) of clothing and the second was identifying with the sci-fi scene after spending two hours bumping along in the bus, arriving at 4 300 metres. Obviously I did, although we have been receiving so much ‘what can happen to your body at altitude’ snippets of information, that I was quite surprised to be upright and functioning.
Another challenge which contributed to the pot of challenges was the effects of two early morning starts, with the previous day getting up to fly to Calamara City at 2 000 metres, for the start of the Andean adventure. When the alarm went off at 3.15am, my intrepid travelling companion (he’s getting used to this label) was already up and in the shower - obviously well trained by his hardy American colleagues I say!
Although thankfully we didn’t stop off at Calamara City (don’t like cities), you might be interested to know that apart from its metreage above sea level, it only exists (in a moonscape) for copper and has the world’s largest copper mine - producing a 6th of the world’s copper. More fascinating (for me) - never been terribly interested in pipes - it’s the driest place on earth. In some places rain has never been recorded - beat that!
Just in case you think we’ve been sitting around gazing at geysers - we most definitely haven’t. After the initial awesomeness of yesterday mornings cauldrons, we spent a further 7 hours (more numbers) travelling around looking at more awesome spectacles, stopping off at a little village for coca tea. There was another major excursion which brought forth Andean Flamingo, Chilean Flamingo, Puna Plover and Andean Avocet. Only the brave and hardy went on this (my super hero room mate) as by this time I was wiped out, as were most of the rest of the group - who I’m not going to tell you about yet, as there’s no time.
Birding and mousing
The Bill Bryson noticing’ registers ‘very hot’ on the birds and moving creatures scale. Yesterday, the star award has to go to the Olive Grass Mouse and to its photographer - we’ll be able to show you just how cute it is.
I’m catching up after the events of the last two days which have moved at a rapid pace in all directions - particularly height above sea level. It’s not something to be dwelt on in the usual course of daily events but the compass feature on the super watch has been overridden by the altitude button - so you’ll also have to get used to it. To get you acclimatised, I’m tapping away in our room on the final morning (of two) at the little town of San Pedro de Altacama which is at 2 300 metres - where it’s boiling hot by day and v. cold at night - although it will be much colder in Bolivia. This brings ‘stuff’ back into the foreground, as the whole group of us (18) spend a lot of the time putting ‘stuff’ on and taking it off, all day long - and night as far as I’m concerned. Last night’s bed coverings were particularly frail!
To give you an idea, we set off at 5.00am yesterday morning for a bone shaking two hour drive to El Tatio Geysers where it was minus 14 Celsius (can’t find the degree key - don’t think there is one). It was an ‘awesome’ place, which again challenged my perceptions of scenery and geography. To be in a desert which hasn’t seen rain for forty years in some areas and then to be transported to a moonlike setting wit) steam rising and endless bubbling cauldrons was challenging. The biggest challenge was whether I could actually move whilst wearing so many layers (approx 9) of clothing and the second was identifying with the sci-fi scene after spending two hours bumping along in the bus, arriving at 4 300 metres. Obviously I did, although we have been receiving so much ‘what can happen to your body at altitude’ snippets of information, that I was quite surprised to be upright and functioning.
Another challenge which contributed to the pot of challenges was the effects of two early morning starts, with the previous day getting up to fly to Calamara City at 2 000 metres, for the start of the Andean adventure. When the alarm went off at 3.15am, my intrepid travelling companion (he’s getting used to this label) was already up and in the shower - obviously well trained by his hardy American colleagues I say!
Although thankfully we didn’t stop off at Calamara City (don’t like cities), you might be interested to know that apart from its metreage above sea level, it only exists (in a moonscape) for copper and has the world’s largest copper mine - producing a 6th of the world’s copper. More fascinating (for me) - never been terribly interested in pipes - it’s the driest place on earth. In some places rain has never been recorded - beat that!
Just in case you think we’ve been sitting around gazing at geysers - we most definitely haven’t. After the initial awesomeness of yesterday mornings cauldrons, we spent a further 7 hours (more numbers) travelling around looking at more awesome spectacles, stopping off at a little village for coca tea. There was another major excursion which brought forth Andean Flamingo, Chilean Flamingo, Puna Plover and Andean Avocet. Only the brave and hardy went on this (my super hero room mate) as by this time I was wiped out, as were most of the rest of the group - who I’m not going to tell you about yet, as there’s no time.
Birding and mousing
The Bill Bryson noticing’ registers ‘very hot’ on the birds and moving creatures scale. Yesterday, the star award has to go to the Olive Grass Mouse and to its photographer - we’ll be able to show you just how cute it is.
Monday, 10 August 2009
The adventure begins
My Bill Bryson-like 'noticing' notes have become somewhat desert-like yesterday/today, which is appropriate, as we are getting up at 3.15am tomorrow, for an early (2 hour) flight to Calama and bus to San Pedro de Atacama - the gateway to the dramatic landscapes of the Atacama Desert (apparently). The reason for the note-drying-up is that we joined the Explore tour group yesterday and I am in the process of adjusting to the change. Instead of driving around in the little unnamed embedded scarred white car, activating every nerve ending (with most of the help from the compass), in an attempt to find somewhere, I have been adjusting to doing what I'm told (!) - and being driven to Valparaiso today by a very nice bus driver and tour guide.
I have had enough of traffic and buildings and am ready to get stuck into the next step of our adventures which really begin tomorrow - very early. So early that my travelling companion has taken to bed (it's 8.10pm) in readiness and the hotel room has taken on a V. Meldrewish air. He's pretending to sleep - but I know better. As far as I'm concerned, there's still work to be done (!) and the night is yet young!
Quite interesting facts recently gleaned:
- Centralians There is a point in the centre of Santiago which is regarded as the centre of Chile, which is very relevant as two daughters are in the centre of Australia AND Phil is meeting with someone from the Centralian Advocate for coffee any minute (she doesn't like coffee) to begin developing her career.
- half of Chile's exports and a big chunk of income comes from copper mining.
- 70% of Chilean wine is exported to the UK and today we drove through Casablanca Valley where we recognised that a lot of the wine we buy from Tesco is produced.
- Chile is the country with the second most volcanoes in the world, after Indonesia.
- Chile expects a big earthquake every 20 years, and the last was in 1985 - just as well we will soon be in Bolivia.
If you want to know more details of our tour, you can check it out on the Explore website at www.explore.co.uk It is entitled 'Atacama to Machu Picchu' and its dossier ref is AX. Tomorrow is day 3 on Tuesday 11th August. If I go quiet (not a bad thing!) it means lack of wifi, although I'll keep up the blog for multiple postings. Our very nice (young) tour guide is not too well at the moment - he originally thought it might be swine flu, but doctor says not. He comes from Southampton; went to Nottingham Uni (biology); has Argentinian mother; moved there six years ago; is very well organised, even when poorly. Am reading your e mails, but not always able to reply - so keep them coming.
I have had enough of traffic and buildings and am ready to get stuck into the next step of our adventures which really begin tomorrow - very early. So early that my travelling companion has taken to bed (it's 8.10pm) in readiness and the hotel room has taken on a V. Meldrewish air. He's pretending to sleep - but I know better. As far as I'm concerned, there's still work to be done (!) and the night is yet young!
Quite interesting facts recently gleaned:
- Centralians There is a point in the centre of Santiago which is regarded as the centre of Chile, which is very relevant as two daughters are in the centre of Australia AND Phil is meeting with someone from the Centralian Advocate for coffee any minute (she doesn't like coffee) to begin developing her career.
- half of Chile's exports and a big chunk of income comes from copper mining.
- 70% of Chilean wine is exported to the UK and today we drove through Casablanca Valley where we recognised that a lot of the wine we buy from Tesco is produced.
- Chile is the country with the second most volcanoes in the world, after Indonesia.
- Chile expects a big earthquake every 20 years, and the last was in 1985 - just as well we will soon be in Bolivia.
If you want to know more details of our tour, you can check it out on the Explore website at www.explore.co.uk It is entitled 'Atacama to Machu Picchu' and its dossier ref is AX. Tomorrow is day 3 on Tuesday 11th August. If I go quiet (not a bad thing!) it means lack of wifi, although I'll keep up the blog for multiple postings. Our very nice (young) tour guide is not too well at the moment - he originally thought it might be swine flu, but doctor says not. He comes from Southampton; went to Nottingham Uni (biology); has Argentinian mother; moved there six years ago; is very well organised, even when poorly. Am reading your e mails, but not always able to reply - so keep them coming.
Sunday, 9 August 2009
Miguel Claro police station
The day started off much as usual - an hour in the Miguel Claro police station (in old, v. interesting historic part of town) reporting details of the unnamed car's embedded scar (for insurance purposes). All went very smoothly (weren't kept in), thanks to the supreme taxi driver who spoke English and understood the procedure. I won't go into more 'karki' (colour of police uniforms) detail at this stage, as my travelling companion would rather 'move on' (!).
Notes re police station
- you need to take a numbered ticket (as per meat counter/children's shoe shop). We wouldn't have known and could have sat waiting our turn all day, but for the taxi driver.
- kaki PCs are attached to v. noisy dot maitrix printers, printing off reams of forms.
- kaki environment made me feel (and probably act) very shiftily - trying my best to look innocent, but not succeeding very well.
- time is definitely not of the essence and we wondered if this would be where we could end up spending our hols - (we didn't).
Postscript
Yesterday's highlight was enjoying the hospitality of Carmen, Antonio, Antonia, and the company of Sergio (rhino enthusiast) and Gabriella (gorilla enthusiast).
Elaine - your e mail was as good as any blog and you can post comments - give it a go.
Notes re police station
- you need to take a numbered ticket (as per meat counter/children's shoe shop). We wouldn't have known and could have sat waiting our turn all day, but for the taxi driver.
- kaki PCs are attached to v. noisy dot maitrix printers, printing off reams of forms.
- kaki environment made me feel (and probably act) very shiftily - trying my best to look innocent, but not succeeding very well.
- time is definitely not of the essence and we wondered if this would be where we could end up spending our hols - (we didn't).
Postscript
Yesterday's highlight was enjoying the hospitality of Carmen, Antonio, Antonia, and the company of Sergio (rhino enthusiast) and Gabriella (gorilla enthusiast).
Elaine - your e mail was as good as any blog and you can post comments - give it a go.
Saturday, 8 August 2009
Every i phone has its day
The Saturday mountain road(s) were surging with 4 wheel drive vehicles et al in a hurry to make the most of the stunning weather and whatever this centro touristico (something like that) has to offer - fortunately we've had total peace and quiet and were heading in the opposite direction, towards Santiago (compass willing). Loitering along the road, reluctant to face the city, we had really good views of two Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles (stubby wings and stumpy tail). As I have the superior binoculars it means that there can be a bit of a tussle for them if the bird(s) is particularly hot - these were not particularly.
I haven't mentioned the showers in this part of the world yet - you know, the ones in bathrooms. In the same way that I'm interested in carcasses (mentioned in last blog), I also take an interest in the plumbing of the world (similar sort of thing to birds of the world). Not long ago, I was fortunate enough to be able to catalogue (by photographing) some unique examples of toilets, from South Africa to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), on a camping trip - showers didn't have the same appeal, as they don't here really. I had forgotten (from past experience) that hot and cold water don't mix too well in this part of the world. This morning, the Heidi log cabin was reminiscent of 'boot camp' due to the wood burner having gone out (burnt finger on it yesterday) and due to non-mixing of hot and cold, I opted for the 'cool' rather than the scalding cleansing option - very bracing and brought back memories of my childhood.
Back to the road and scenery. Cactuses (don't like cacti) dot the mountain slopes and add a desert-like feel, enhanced by the occasional horse rider in a cowboylike hat - horses are very big around here (not bigger physically necessary) - although I'm not a big fan. The combination of cactuses and snow-capped mountains is breaking down some of my stereotypical perceptions of what to expect of scenery - Heidi/John Wayne. Reluctant to leave either the cactuses or the snowy mountains, we deviated along a non-dirt winding road and identified (with the help of my bins): Patagonian Tyrant, Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch and a Condor (circling gracefully against backdrop of vivid blue sky).
The above was the easy bit and for some unimagineable reason we thought it would be much more straightforward heading due NNW back to the centre of Santiago. We expected to hit a patch of countrysideish route and then to find a motorway of sorts - ha ha ha. It's difficult to describe the feeling of travelling along a straight road with apparently no end, through cityscape of every imaginable type - with NOT a signpost in sight OR name of town to suggest our whereabouts. We occasionally used the silhouette of the Andes and the compass to check that we were at least heading in the right direction - and looking on the bright side - at least it wasn't raining, but a scorcher of a day (to be stuck in a car, lost).
We had no choice but to struggle on, unless we wanted to live in the car forever, stopped at some 'semaforos' (traffic lights). When buildings started to get seriously big and important looking, we guessed that we had arrived somewhere - and it was at about this point (and by now in utter desperation) that I took out the i phone again, hoping that the 'location apps' might work. Unbelievably, we were then able to start using it as a sat nav and could pinpoint our destination. The journey didn't quite end there due to the one way systems, but at least we knew where we were at last. It puts conquering Everest or fighting off bears in the Arctic (with a mouse trap) into perspective - much more straightforward in my opinion!
Turning up at this city hotel I realised that my trousers and general mountain apparel of multiple layers didn't seem quite so appropriate here (!) - sludge green men's with thick fleecy underlayer - never mind. Out to Carmen's tonight and meeting the tour group tomorrow - happy days!
I haven't mentioned the showers in this part of the world yet - you know, the ones in bathrooms. In the same way that I'm interested in carcasses (mentioned in last blog), I also take an interest in the plumbing of the world (similar sort of thing to birds of the world). Not long ago, I was fortunate enough to be able to catalogue (by photographing) some unique examples of toilets, from South Africa to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), on a camping trip - showers didn't have the same appeal, as they don't here really. I had forgotten (from past experience) that hot and cold water don't mix too well in this part of the world. This morning, the Heidi log cabin was reminiscent of 'boot camp' due to the wood burner having gone out (burnt finger on it yesterday) and due to non-mixing of hot and cold, I opted for the 'cool' rather than the scalding cleansing option - very bracing and brought back memories of my childhood.
Back to the road and scenery. Cactuses (don't like cacti) dot the mountain slopes and add a desert-like feel, enhanced by the occasional horse rider in a cowboylike hat - horses are very big around here (not bigger physically necessary) - although I'm not a big fan. The combination of cactuses and snow-capped mountains is breaking down some of my stereotypical perceptions of what to expect of scenery - Heidi/John Wayne. Reluctant to leave either the cactuses or the snowy mountains, we deviated along a non-dirt winding road and identified (with the help of my bins): Patagonian Tyrant, Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch and a Condor (circling gracefully against backdrop of vivid blue sky).
The above was the easy bit and for some unimagineable reason we thought it would be much more straightforward heading due NNW back to the centre of Santiago. We expected to hit a patch of countrysideish route and then to find a motorway of sorts - ha ha ha. It's difficult to describe the feeling of travelling along a straight road with apparently no end, through cityscape of every imaginable type - with NOT a signpost in sight OR name of town to suggest our whereabouts. We occasionally used the silhouette of the Andes and the compass to check that we were at least heading in the right direction - and looking on the bright side - at least it wasn't raining, but a scorcher of a day (to be stuck in a car, lost).
We had no choice but to struggle on, unless we wanted to live in the car forever, stopped at some 'semaforos' (traffic lights). When buildings started to get seriously big and important looking, we guessed that we had arrived somewhere - and it was at about this point (and by now in utter desperation) that I took out the i phone again, hoping that the 'location apps' might work. Unbelievably, we were then able to start using it as a sat nav and could pinpoint our destination. The journey didn't quite end there due to the one way systems, but at least we knew where we were at last. It puts conquering Everest or fighting off bears in the Arctic (with a mouse trap) into perspective - much more straightforward in my opinion!
Turning up at this city hotel I realised that my trousers and general mountain apparel of multiple layers didn't seem quite so appropriate here (!) - sludge green men's with thick fleecy underlayer - never mind. Out to Carmen's tonight and meeting the tour group tomorrow - happy days!
Up the mountain
This is the first time that I’ve written anything in advance of posting - due to Spartan wifi access. I wrote this morning’s account in the dining ‘area’ which is quite select and not particularly conducive to creativity - especially as I had mister “you can’t write that” sitting at my right elbow, holding the computer steady. Today, in true holiday adventure spirit, we set of up the road which followed the Rio Yeso, intending to reach the El Yeso reservoir, about 25kms away (the lower slopes of the Andes). It was a typical small dirt/stone/mud/snow/water road which wended its way to a higher altitude, where the said Sandpiper Plover could have been found. For your information, the scientific rationale for not having found it was that there was too much snow and it wouldn’t have arrived to breed yet - we were too early (will have to come back).
My nerves were somewhat on edge as we climbed higher, due to the number of mini and maxi landslides and small to huge rocks which carelessly dumped themselves onto the road and could do the same for hour heads and the little white car. As the steep hotel driveway and gate experience had awakened my fear of precipices, I wasn’t too keep on getting close to those either - although in the grand scheme of holiday experiences, these were of a minor sort.
After a few kilometres of bone shaking travel (I wondered whether the car/me could take it), we couldn’t believe our luck when we encountered a group of circling birds of prey and one humungous Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) very close by - the Condor was on my side of the car and was perched about 80metres away - so I got the best views (!). There’s always a best bit… and it was the three quarters eaten horse carcass which was of interest to them birds. I have a fascination for carcasses - probably because they attract all sorts of interesting scavengers. We have a rather tired photograph of mine at home, taken a few years ago of White backed Vultures in India feasting on one.
Bear in mind that we are in the back of beyond and are the only traffic, but firstly another car came along and caused more disturbance than us and put the birds up - then a little road works truck arrived and a bod hopped out and put up ‘road works’ signs and cones (in the middle of nowhere) - so that was that. We got some photos of the Condor and one or two of the twenty or so Mountain Caracara. On the way back, we were held up by the said roadworks (!) right by the remains of the carcass and I was about to photograph it (screensaver ?), when we were waved on - as you are when you are the only car within quite a few miles.
We only managed about 20ks of road, due to snow - yes snow! The snow-capped mountains had come down to meet us and the road was becoming something of a challenge for the unnamed white car. At the point of turning round, a lorry appeared up the hill and duly started slipping and sliding and eventually turned round, as we had. This is the second best bit …THEN about fifteen men, watched over by a man in police uniform, proceeded to enthusiastically shovel snow into the back of the lorry! It was weird to say the least. Unfortunately our Spanish is somewhat limited (understatement), which meant we couldn’t ask any questions. I thought that perhaps they were inmates doing some sort of penance (snow shovelling into a lorry?!), but they seemed very happy and stopped from time to time to take photos of the beautiful surroundings.
I must confess that the weather has been absolutely stunning today. It’s so peaceful here and last night it was completely dark and there were no sounds (well - mostly), apart from occasional wood burner stoking - and choking from the resulting dry atmosphere and fumes.
As usual, you need the odd random fact to accompany the above, as follows:
Altitude
Started out at 1 000 metres and reached 2 270 - would have been higher if we had made it the last 5ks to the reservoir.
Super watch
We only know these facts due to the super watch (of yesterday’s compass saviour)
Car survival
It got us there and back, although there seems to be a problem with ‘knowing’ how to get it started - particularly from stalling, which happens frequently in this terrain.
The bird list
Obviously I wouldn’t try you with this every day, but I am particularly keen on interesting names, especially when these are attached to interesting birds - especially colourful. Apart from the Condor (and we saw approx. 12 today), the best looking bird (found by me) has a dullish name but looks the business - and is therefore first on my list:
Long-tailed Meadowlark (bright red throat and chest - pretty impressive)
Mountain Caracara (20)
Perched Condor (was the absolute best) + 12 more in flight
Rufous banded Miner
Common Diuca-Finch
Moustached Turca (wren-like bird - wow)
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail (I thought it was a tit from a distance)
House wren (pretty little wren, but likes climbing trees)
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
The stove in the Heidi house (not Hi-De-Hi) has been lit to provide warmth and further night entertainment! This is our last night here before heading back to Santiago tomorrow, and hopefully signs. We have been invited to Carmen’s (Chilean university professor friend) house tomorrow evening, for a typical Chilean meal.
My nerves were somewhat on edge as we climbed higher, due to the number of mini and maxi landslides and small to huge rocks which carelessly dumped themselves onto the road and could do the same for hour heads and the little white car. As the steep hotel driveway and gate experience had awakened my fear of precipices, I wasn’t too keep on getting close to those either - although in the grand scheme of holiday experiences, these were of a minor sort.
After a few kilometres of bone shaking travel (I wondered whether the car/me could take it), we couldn’t believe our luck when we encountered a group of circling birds of prey and one humungous Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) very close by - the Condor was on my side of the car and was perched about 80metres away - so I got the best views (!). There’s always a best bit… and it was the three quarters eaten horse carcass which was of interest to them birds. I have a fascination for carcasses - probably because they attract all sorts of interesting scavengers. We have a rather tired photograph of mine at home, taken a few years ago of White backed Vultures in India feasting on one.
Bear in mind that we are in the back of beyond and are the only traffic, but firstly another car came along and caused more disturbance than us and put the birds up - then a little road works truck arrived and a bod hopped out and put up ‘road works’ signs and cones (in the middle of nowhere) - so that was that. We got some photos of the Condor and one or two of the twenty or so Mountain Caracara. On the way back, we were held up by the said roadworks (!) right by the remains of the carcass and I was about to photograph it (screensaver ?), when we were waved on - as you are when you are the only car within quite a few miles.
We only managed about 20ks of road, due to snow - yes snow! The snow-capped mountains had come down to meet us and the road was becoming something of a challenge for the unnamed white car. At the point of turning round, a lorry appeared up the hill and duly started slipping and sliding and eventually turned round, as we had. This is the second best bit …THEN about fifteen men, watched over by a man in police uniform, proceeded to enthusiastically shovel snow into the back of the lorry! It was weird to say the least. Unfortunately our Spanish is somewhat limited (understatement), which meant we couldn’t ask any questions. I thought that perhaps they were inmates doing some sort of penance (snow shovelling into a lorry?!), but they seemed very happy and stopped from time to time to take photos of the beautiful surroundings.
I must confess that the weather has been absolutely stunning today. It’s so peaceful here and last night it was completely dark and there were no sounds (well - mostly), apart from occasional wood burner stoking - and choking from the resulting dry atmosphere and fumes.
As usual, you need the odd random fact to accompany the above, as follows:
Altitude
Started out at 1 000 metres and reached 2 270 - would have been higher if we had made it the last 5ks to the reservoir.
Super watch
We only know these facts due to the super watch (of yesterday’s compass saviour)
Car survival
It got us there and back, although there seems to be a problem with ‘knowing’ how to get it started - particularly from stalling, which happens frequently in this terrain.
The bird list
Obviously I wouldn’t try you with this every day, but I am particularly keen on interesting names, especially when these are attached to interesting birds - especially colourful. Apart from the Condor (and we saw approx. 12 today), the best looking bird (found by me) has a dullish name but looks the business - and is therefore first on my list:
Long-tailed Meadowlark (bright red throat and chest - pretty impressive)
Mountain Caracara (20)
Perched Condor (was the absolute best) + 12 more in flight
Rufous banded Miner
Common Diuca-Finch
Moustached Turca (wren-like bird - wow)
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail (I thought it was a tit from a distance)
House wren (pretty little wren, but likes climbing trees)
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
The stove in the Heidi house (not Hi-De-Hi) has been lit to provide warmth and further night entertainment! This is our last night here before heading back to Santiago tomorrow, and hopefully signs. We have been invited to Carmen’s (Chilean university professor friend) house tomorrow evening, for a typical Chilean meal.
Friday, 7 August 2009
'taller mechanico'
Yesterday we 'made our way' up into the mountains east of Santiago to San Alfonso - except that 'making our way' is a euphemism for spending a great deal of time in the light industrial areas (with loads of oily, smelly, dirty, falling down buildings, greasy bits and pieces - advertising themselves as 'taller mechanico') of two large towns (San Bernardino and Puente Alto) in an attempt to head eastwards to the said destination. Fortunately (always look on the bright side) it wasn't raining (or snowing) and we managed to maintain reasonably high spirits - even though I was somewhat desperate to visit the ladies. We didn't exactly drive around in circles because the roads, such as they are, are built on a grid system and the clever driver and navigator (obviously not me) eventually got us on the right road (a bit by accident), but largely with the assistance of the compass on his super watch! The map was completely useless and the compass ruled the day. We had one or two minor adventures on the way, such as the visit to the supermarket (out of desperation for ladies) which was fortuitous to say the least. Very few people appear to frequent supermarkets here and there couldn't have been more than a dozen - as if I cared, being only interested in the loo.
Having arrived, we spent last night in a Heidi-like log cabin, with accompanying woodburning stove. All was very cosy, except that the stove was quite high maintenance - just as well my travelling companion is a bit of a night owl! Off to explore, in the hope of locating a Diademed Sandpiper Plover higher up the mountain - although it's not actually the right time of year. If you don't know what one looks like, I suggest you google it as it is something a bit special.
Travelling notes from yesterday
Observed on motorway:
horse and cart
bus stop
snow capped mountains
fruit stall selling oranges and lemons
Later on in 'taller mechanico' (in the thick of it), car was actually filled with petrol by attendant and windscreen washed (simple pleasures!)
Cost of petrol 60p per litre (pleased husband)
On arrival in the latish afternoon, saw approx. 15 Andean Condors
Having arrived, we spent last night in a Heidi-like log cabin, with accompanying woodburning stove. All was very cosy, except that the stove was quite high maintenance - just as well my travelling companion is a bit of a night owl! Off to explore, in the hope of locating a Diademed Sandpiper Plover higher up the mountain - although it's not actually the right time of year. If you don't know what one looks like, I suggest you google it as it is something a bit special.
Travelling notes from yesterday
Observed on motorway:
horse and cart
bus stop
snow capped mountains
fruit stall selling oranges and lemons
Later on in 'taller mechanico' (in the thick of it), car was actually filled with petrol by attendant and windscreen washed (simple pleasures!)
Cost of petrol 60p per litre (pleased husband)
On arrival in the latish afternoon, saw approx. 15 Andean Condors
Wednesday, 5 August 2009
A room with a 'lovli viu' / the incident with the gate
We found this hotel by clicking on a google earth/maps flag and the booking was confirmed with the promise of a room with a 'lovli viu'. In reality the room has a reasonably lovely view, due to its location on a bit of a hill and is set apart from the main hotel. We are on the end of a row of six (all others unoccupied) rooms, accessible via the back entrance driveway which is very steep. At the bottom of the said driveway is an electric gate, of a not particularly speciali variety. Don't log off yet - as the best is to come - believe me!
We have a little hire car which isn't named yet, although the registration starts with BV - Beverley or Bovine don't seem to accord with this geographical location, so am still working on it. However, this morning we had planned to take her out for the day (which turned out v. sunny and lovely), which necessitated driving her down the drive and out through the electric gate. As it had been something of a struggle getting her up the driveway when we arrived, I decided to walk down the driveway (don't log off), press the button on the room key to open the gate in advance, in readiness for the car to be driven competently down the steep incline and out through the gate.
And now for the interesting bit.... I walked on ahead, opened the gate and waited for the said unnamed car to appear - which it did. Not being terribly spacially aware (or generally aware!), I hadn't realised (not being familiar with such sophisticated technology), that such gates operated on a timer system. Believe me, this one doesn't look sophisticated, with rust and accompanying rustic scenery. Anyway - as the car was entering the zone of the gate (yes, you've guessed), the gate started to close (yes, sophisticated timer system) and I stood transfixed as the said gate, with sticky outy piece of metal confidently closed upon the said car which didn't quite make it through. You can probably imagine the rest (!) - especially the sticky outy bit of the gate engaging with the said car - as it was still moving.... hence the 'embedded' scar in its side. Fortunately it fell short of the petrol tank (just), and a somewhat hasty manly pressing of buttons set the car free.
The whole incident has awakened a phobia which has obviously lain dormant - a fear of driving up or down very steep inclines, and obviously electric gates. It doesn't bode well for our trip into the mountains which begins tomorrow!
We have a little hire car which isn't named yet, although the registration starts with BV - Beverley or Bovine don't seem to accord with this geographical location, so am still working on it. However, this morning we had planned to take her out for the day (which turned out v. sunny and lovely), which necessitated driving her down the drive and out through the electric gate. As it had been something of a struggle getting her up the driveway when we arrived, I decided to walk down the driveway (don't log off), press the button on the room key to open the gate in advance, in readiness for the car to be driven competently down the steep incline and out through the gate.
And now for the interesting bit.... I walked on ahead, opened the gate and waited for the said unnamed car to appear - which it did. Not being terribly spacially aware (or generally aware!), I hadn't realised (not being familiar with such sophisticated technology), that such gates operated on a timer system. Believe me, this one doesn't look sophisticated, with rust and accompanying rustic scenery. Anyway - as the car was entering the zone of the gate (yes, you've guessed), the gate started to close (yes, sophisticated timer system) and I stood transfixed as the said gate, with sticky outy piece of metal confidently closed upon the said car which didn't quite make it through. You can probably imagine the rest (!) - especially the sticky outy bit of the gate engaging with the said car - as it was still moving.... hence the 'embedded' scar in its side. Fortunately it fell short of the petrol tank (just), and a somewhat hasty manly pressing of buttons set the car free.
The whole incident has awakened a phobia which has obviously lain dormant - a fear of driving up or down very steep inclines, and obviously electric gates. It doesn't bode well for our trip into the mountains which begins tomorrow!
Tuesday, 4 August 2009
Fawlty Towers
Firstly..Although all BBC and other news is banned/prohibited on this trip, details of the flu victim would be welcome Deborah!
We are currently staying at Fawlty Towers (Hotel Rocas, santo Domingo), by the noisy Pacific Ocean, south west of Santiago - just south of San Antonio. It's noisy because of the constant growling of the ocean and nighttime dogs (and occasionally me). It's out of season, so we're the only two guests in town and are being waited upon by Manuel and Basil - Manuel doesn't speak a word of English and does the cooking and lots of other stuff, usually wearing a white jacket. Basil is very very friendly (John Cleeselike friendly) and can't do enough to please us. They must have caught sight of my tiny travel kettle today (bulky 'stuff') and when we returned from investigating the coast in the rain (it's winter) this afternoon, there was a large new kettle in our room. Basil is particularly thrilled (and perplexed) that we have travelled all the way from England to experience the Chilean winter.
No effort is spared in the food department and this evening (although we had explained in advance) we were hovered over as a meaty lasagne was proudly presented to each of us - bearing in mind that I don't eat meat. Under the Fawltian circumstances, it is impossible to do anything other than 'tuck in'. I had already ingratiated myself with Manuel by praising him for the tomato soup - in spanish no less. Of course he didn't know that 'La sopa es muy buena' was actually down to iSpeak Spanish on the i phone - and was visibly thrilled by my sudden eloquence. This bond between us made it even more impossible for me to do any other than get stuck in to his meaty treat. I picked and pecked at it and would have looked up something along the lines of 'I only have a small appetite', except that during the repast the TV in the nearby reception/bar was switched off - with most lights and we were wished good night - phew! Bear in mind that it was only about 7.30 - and I thought English winter evenings were quiet.
Well - that's about it for now - after all the time is getting on and it's nearly 9.00pm! I'll sign out with the following sayings of the day:
"I didn't realise my longjohns would get so much wear"
Dinner quote:
"It's like being married to Henry VIII!"
Response:
"And you know what happened to his wives, don't you?"
We are currently staying at Fawlty Towers (Hotel Rocas, santo Domingo), by the noisy Pacific Ocean, south west of Santiago - just south of San Antonio. It's noisy because of the constant growling of the ocean and nighttime dogs (and occasionally me). It's out of season, so we're the only two guests in town and are being waited upon by Manuel and Basil - Manuel doesn't speak a word of English and does the cooking and lots of other stuff, usually wearing a white jacket. Basil is very very friendly (John Cleeselike friendly) and can't do enough to please us. They must have caught sight of my tiny travel kettle today (bulky 'stuff') and when we returned from investigating the coast in the rain (it's winter) this afternoon, there was a large new kettle in our room. Basil is particularly thrilled (and perplexed) that we have travelled all the way from England to experience the Chilean winter.
No effort is spared in the food department and this evening (although we had explained in advance) we were hovered over as a meaty lasagne was proudly presented to each of us - bearing in mind that I don't eat meat. Under the Fawltian circumstances, it is impossible to do anything other than 'tuck in'. I had already ingratiated myself with Manuel by praising him for the tomato soup - in spanish no less. Of course he didn't know that 'La sopa es muy buena' was actually down to iSpeak Spanish on the i phone - and was visibly thrilled by my sudden eloquence. This bond between us made it even more impossible for me to do any other than get stuck in to his meaty treat. I picked and pecked at it and would have looked up something along the lines of 'I only have a small appetite', except that during the repast the TV in the nearby reception/bar was switched off - with most lights and we were wished good night - phew! Bear in mind that it was only about 7.30 - and I thought English winter evenings were quiet.
Well - that's about it for now - after all the time is getting on and it's nearly 9.00pm! I'll sign out with the following sayings of the day:
"I didn't realise my longjohns would get so much wear"
Dinner quote:
"It's like being married to Henry VIII!"
Response:
"And you know what happened to his wives, don't you?"
Monday, 3 August 2009
A traveller's notes
A flavour of contemporary travelling
'espere favor' ... 'please wait'.... That just about sums it up in the grand scheme of herding humans from one part of the world to the other in large metal containers. 'Stuff' is as troublesome as it was during packing, dictating the rummaging for pens at the bottom of bags and the 'right' piece of reading material for the occasion. Yes, I have everything the contemporary traveller could wish for: plasters; i phone (not in that order); husband (?); scarves (fashionable and warming); binoculars; bird books; note book; plastic bags (small to large); water bottle; umbrella; swine flu recovery pharmacy, etc.
Swine flu
Apart from making me extremely nervous, I haven't seen or heard any evidence that such a thing exists - apart from in my imagination, based on what I've read in the newspapers and listened to on the TV news. I haven't glimpsed so much as a face mask at Heathrow, amongst the thousands of travellers stuffed into terminal 3 yesterday; at Madrid airport; on both full planes or on arrival in Chile - which I read was a hotspot. My paranoia alerted me to the slightest cough, croak or sneeze, leading to near combustion when there was no soap in the dispensers in one of the ladies loos at Heathrow terminal 3 - which leads to the next heading - Victor Meldrewisms....
Victor Meldrewisms
I have tried to keep these to a minimum, especially as we are supposed to be setting of for a 'holiday' and I don't want to be too 'trying' for those poor unfortunates who have to put up with it. Apart from the subject of 'imaginary swine flu', the second most annoying has been 'cumersome cabin baggage' which has held up the progress of people (and me) getting on and off the planes. I know Phil... don't say it!! Going back to swine flue, the third has probably been people coughing and sniffing loudly on the planes...grrr
Researching overcoming jetlag
I didn't eat on the 13 hour plane journey to Santiago to check out the research recently demonstrated on a TV documentary on sleep - you saw it Phil? Without going into the details here, (eating being related to our internal body clock), I wanted to check out the theory that I wouldn't suffer from jed lag if I only drank water and didn't eat. Fortunately the research sample included a husband who ate everything, which accords with the TV sample. Anyway, so far... the day hasn't yet finished...and in my opinion as chief researcher, I am still quite perky whilst the other subject has hinted at the opposite. I'll make notes as dinner progresses.
Preparations for dinner
This is a note which will be of interest to Judith, who likes the finer things in life (!) - I've just put my longjohns on under trousers + four layers on top, as it's very chilly down here on the coast (inChileN.
There's loads more to tell you, especially about the camera on the top of the plane's tail which enabled us to get a good view of the Andes on the approach to Santiago. We managed to clock up a few bits and pieces of birds and creatures during the day, with highlights:
Sothern lapwing, Cattle Egret, Llama, Chimango Caracara, Great Egret, American Kestrel, Black-necked swan, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Black Vulture, Masses of vineyards, Black-crowned Night Heron, Beaver (photographed), Great Grebe (feeding beautiful stripe-headed chick on water), Spot-flanked Gallinule (bright lime green bill), Red-fronted coot, Neotropic cormorant, Pied-billed Grebe, White-winged coot, American Oystercatcher (sixty), Brown-hooded gull, Chilean Mockingbird,White-Banded Mockingbird (said to be a vagrant!), Whimbrel, Peruvian Pelican, Grey Gull, Kelp Gull.
Thank goodness for the i phone too, as anything we don't know (which is everything), I can google - such as the population of Chile is about 13 million; about 5 million live in Santiago; it gets dark at about 6.30 (!) - now. I have got more to say about motorways, but for the sake of holiday harmony, I'd better stop for now.
'espere favor' ... 'please wait'.... That just about sums it up in the grand scheme of herding humans from one part of the world to the other in large metal containers. 'Stuff' is as troublesome as it was during packing, dictating the rummaging for pens at the bottom of bags and the 'right' piece of reading material for the occasion. Yes, I have everything the contemporary traveller could wish for: plasters; i phone (not in that order); husband (?); scarves (fashionable and warming); binoculars; bird books; note book; plastic bags (small to large); water bottle; umbrella; swine flu recovery pharmacy, etc.
Swine flu
Apart from making me extremely nervous, I haven't seen or heard any evidence that such a thing exists - apart from in my imagination, based on what I've read in the newspapers and listened to on the TV news. I haven't glimpsed so much as a face mask at Heathrow, amongst the thousands of travellers stuffed into terminal 3 yesterday; at Madrid airport; on both full planes or on arrival in Chile - which I read was a hotspot. My paranoia alerted me to the slightest cough, croak or sneeze, leading to near combustion when there was no soap in the dispensers in one of the ladies loos at Heathrow terminal 3 - which leads to the next heading - Victor Meldrewisms....
Victor Meldrewisms
I have tried to keep these to a minimum, especially as we are supposed to be setting of for a 'holiday' and I don't want to be too 'trying' for those poor unfortunates who have to put up with it. Apart from the subject of 'imaginary swine flu', the second most annoying has been 'cumersome cabin baggage' which has held up the progress of people (and me) getting on and off the planes. I know Phil... don't say it!! Going back to swine flue, the third has probably been people coughing and sniffing loudly on the planes...grrr
Researching overcoming jetlag
I didn't eat on the 13 hour plane journey to Santiago to check out the research recently demonstrated on a TV documentary on sleep - you saw it Phil? Without going into the details here, (eating being related to our internal body clock), I wanted to check out the theory that I wouldn't suffer from jed lag if I only drank water and didn't eat. Fortunately the research sample included a husband who ate everything, which accords with the TV sample. Anyway, so far... the day hasn't yet finished...and in my opinion as chief researcher, I am still quite perky whilst the other subject has hinted at the opposite. I'll make notes as dinner progresses.
Preparations for dinner
This is a note which will be of interest to Judith, who likes the finer things in life (!) - I've just put my longjohns on under trousers + four layers on top, as it's very chilly down here on the coast (inChileN.
There's loads more to tell you, especially about the camera on the top of the plane's tail which enabled us to get a good view of the Andes on the approach to Santiago. We managed to clock up a few bits and pieces of birds and creatures during the day, with highlights:
Sothern lapwing, Cattle Egret, Llama, Chimango Caracara, Great Egret, American Kestrel, Black-necked swan, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Black Vulture, Masses of vineyards, Black-crowned Night Heron, Beaver (photographed), Great Grebe (feeding beautiful stripe-headed chick on water), Spot-flanked Gallinule (bright lime green bill), Red-fronted coot, Neotropic cormorant, Pied-billed Grebe, White-winged coot, American Oystercatcher (sixty), Brown-hooded gull, Chilean Mockingbird,White-Banded Mockingbird (said to be a vagrant!), Whimbrel, Peruvian Pelican, Grey Gull, Kelp Gull.
Thank goodness for the i phone too, as anything we don't know (which is everything), I can google - such as the population of Chile is about 13 million; about 5 million live in Santiago; it gets dark at about 6.30 (!) - now. I have got more to say about motorways, but for the sake of holiday harmony, I'd better stop for now.
Saturday, 1 August 2009
The night before...
Creating this blog is almost the last job before setting off. Setting off where you might ask. Some of you have a rough idea but I don't want to spoil the details and will let these unfold in due course! It's been a long time getting to this point and I am well and truly prepared - can't wait for tomorrow. I hope the shopping is going well in Melbourne girls (?) - not too much of it I hope. Having struggled with 'stuff' all day, have decided there is too much generally and will bear this in mind over the next four weeks.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)