Up the mountain

This is the first time that I’ve written anything in advance of posting - due to Spartan wifi access. I wrote this morning’s account in the dining ‘area’ which is quite select and not particularly conducive to creativity - especially as I had mister “you can’t write that” sitting at my right elbow, holding the computer steady. Today, in true holiday adventure spirit, we set of up the road which followed the Rio Yeso, intending to reach the El Yeso reservoir, about 25kms away (the lower slopes of the Andes). It was a typical small dirt/stone/mud/snow/water road which wended its way to a higher altitude, where the said Sandpiper Plover could have been found. For your information, the scientific rationale for not having found it was that there was too much snow and it wouldn’t have arrived to breed yet - we were too early (will have to come back).

My nerves were somewhat on edge as we climbed higher, due to the number of mini and maxi landslides and small to huge rocks which carelessly dumped themselves onto the road and could do the same for hour heads and the little white car. As the steep hotel driveway and gate experience had awakened my fear of precipices, I wasn’t too keep on getting close to those either - although in the grand scheme of holiday experiences, these were of a minor sort.

After a few kilometres of bone shaking travel (I wondered whether the car/me could take it), we couldn’t believe our luck when we encountered a group of circling birds of prey and one humungous Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) very close by - the Condor was on my side of the car and was perched about 80metres away - so I got the best views (!). There’s always a best bit… and it was the three quarters eaten horse carcass which was of interest to them birds. I have a fascination for carcasses - probably because they attract all sorts of interesting scavengers. We have a rather tired photograph of mine at home, taken a few years ago of White backed Vultures in India feasting on one.

Bear in mind that we are in the back of beyond and are the only traffic, but firstly another car came along and caused more disturbance than us and put the birds up - then a little road works truck arrived and a bod hopped out and put up ‘road works’ signs and cones (in the middle of nowhere) - so that was that. We got some photos of the Condor and one or two of the twenty or so Mountain Caracara. On the way back, we were held up by the said roadworks (!) right by the remains of the carcass and I was about to photograph it (screensaver ?), when we were waved on - as you are when you are the only car within quite a few miles.

We only managed about 20ks of road, due to snow - yes snow! The snow-capped mountains had come down to meet us and the road was becoming something of a challenge for the unnamed white car. At the point of turning round, a lorry appeared up the hill and duly started slipping and sliding and eventually turned round, as we had. This is the second best bit …THEN about fifteen men, watched over by a man in police uniform, proceeded to enthusiastically shovel snow into the back of the lorry! It was weird to say the least. Unfortunately our Spanish is somewhat limited (understatement), which meant we couldn’t ask any questions. I thought that perhaps they were inmates doing some sort of penance (snow shovelling into a lorry?!), but they seemed very happy and stopped from time to time to take photos of the beautiful surroundings.

I must confess that the weather has been absolutely stunning today. It’s so peaceful here and last night it was completely dark and there were no sounds (well - mostly), apart from occasional wood burner stoking - and choking from the resulting dry atmosphere and fumes.

As usual, you need the odd random fact to accompany the above, as follows:
Altitude
Started out at 1 000 metres and reached 2 270 - would have been higher if we had made it the last 5ks to the reservoir.
Super watch
We only know these facts due to the super watch (of yesterday’s compass saviour)
Car survival
It got us there and back, although there seems to be a problem with ‘knowing’ how to get it started - particularly from stalling, which happens frequently in this terrain.
The bird list
Obviously I wouldn’t try you with this every day, but I am particularly keen on interesting names, especially when these are attached to interesting birds - especially colourful. Apart from the Condor (and we saw approx. 12 today), the best looking bird (found by me) has a dullish name but looks the business - and is therefore first on my list:

Long-tailed Meadowlark (bright red throat and chest - pretty impressive)
Mountain Caracara (20)
Perched Condor (was the absolute best) + 12 more in flight
Rufous banded Miner
Common Diuca-Finch
Moustached Turca (wren-like bird - wow)
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail (I thought it was a tit from a distance)
House wren (pretty little wren, but likes climbing trees)
Tufted Tit-Tyrant

The stove in the Heidi house (not Hi-De-Hi) has been lit to provide warmth and further night entertainment! This is our last night here before heading back to Santiago tomorrow, and hopefully signs. We have been invited to Carmen’s (Chilean university professor friend) house tomorrow evening, for a typical Chilean meal.

'taller mechanico'

Yesterday we 'made our way' up into the mountains east of Santiago to San Alfonso - except that 'making our way' is a euphemism for spending a great deal of time in the light industrial areas (with loads of oily, smelly, dirty, falling down buildings, greasy bits and pieces - advertising themselves as 'taller mechanico') of two large towns (San Bernardino and Puente Alto) in an attempt to head eastwards to the said destination. Fortunately (always look on the bright side) it wasn't raining (or snowing) and we managed to maintain reasonably high spirits - even though I was somewhat desperate to visit the ladies. We didn't exactly drive around in circles because the roads, such as they are, are built on a grid system and the clever driver and navigator (obviously not me) eventually got us on the right road (a bit by accident), but largely with the assistance of the compass on his super watch! The map was completely useless and the compass ruled the day. We had one or two minor adventures on the way, such as the visit to the supermarket (out of desperation for ladies) which was fortuitous to say the least. Very few people appear to frequent supermarkets here and there couldn't have been more than a dozen - as if I cared, being only interested in the loo.

Having arrived, we spent last night in a Heidi-like log cabin, with accompanying woodburning stove. All was very cosy, except that the stove was quite high maintenance - just as well my travelling companion is a bit of a night owl! Off to explore, in the hope of locating a Diademed Sandpiper Plover higher up the mountain - although it's not actually the right time of year. If you don't know what one looks like, I suggest you google it as it is something a bit special.

Travelling notes from yesterday
Observed on motorway:
horse and cart
bus stop
snow capped mountains
fruit stall selling oranges and lemons
Later on in 'taller mechanico' (in the thick of it), car was actually filled with petrol by attendant and windscreen washed (simple pleasures!)
Cost of petrol 60p per litre (pleased husband)
On arrival in the latish afternoon, saw approx. 15 Andean Condors